Casa Julio – Pampaneira: Cold, but cheap!
Pampaneira as a village has little to recommend it, which doesn’t seem to keep the tourists, whole truckloads of ‘em, from coming. Mostly it’s shops selling the same tired stuff: rag carpets, woolly hats and odd, slightly shabby, souvenirs.
La Alpujarra is not known for its fine dining. There are, literally, one or two places, but mostly its honest, plain food. Cheap as well. Casa Julio, however, takes cheap to a whole new level at 8 euros for a three course menu. Nothing fancy, but very nice food. For starters, there’s a lovely soup, then there’s a choice between fish, meat and tortilla Espanola. I had the tortilla and was pleasantly suprised: quite often in Spain you get a cold, thick and often dry, eggcake with lots of chewy potatoes. Not at Julio’s, where they serve wonderfully thin, fluffy omelettes, with small slices of potato. For desert there’s a choice between ice cream, flan, arroz con leche or soplillos, an Alpujarran speciality, of sickeningly sweet, crunchy sugar, almonds and eggwhites.
Nice friendly staff, who were a little distracted by the blaring tv set (a riveting episode of Walker, Texas Ranger en Espanol) and huddled in duvet coats because it was freezing inside. I would recommend Casa Julio, but maybe on a warm, dry day, when you can sit out on the terrace enjoying the lovely views over the valley, rather than inside with Chuck Norris.

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